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Flash Box 6 Yarn despencer fishing bead accessories for trout steelhead and salmon by steelyronssteelheadbeads.com
Steelhead caught on a Got Milk?/O 8mm trout, steelhead, and salmon fishing bead by Steelyronssteelheadbeads.com
BosOval foam floats fishing bobber for trout steelhead and salmon by steelyronssteelheadbeads.com
The River Hog fishing bobber for trout steelhead and salmon by steelyronssteelheadbeads.com
I never fished for steelhead in my life. The first time out with my 2 friends we hooked over 20 fish in 3 1/2 hrs. I hooked 5 and landed 3 on the Clearwater River in Northern Idaho. I'm hooked for life!

Thanks Steely Ron,

Jake Elder

It is no secret to the advanced trout, steelhead or salmon fisherman that replicating fish eggs by fishing beads is the most effective way to fish. During the Alevin stage when salmon and steelhead first hatch they are attached to the yolk sac as a food source. When the yolk is depleted the young salmon and steelhead must look for food. Naturally fish eggs are on the menu. At SteelyronsSteelheadBeads.com our focus is to replicate the true size and color of fish eggs found drifting in your local waters. We've developed a large selection of Fishing Beads consisting of Trout Beads, Steelhead Beads, Salmon Beads, Mottled Beads, Egg Beads, Glow Beads & Strike Beads very useful by themselves, as well as with Tube Flies, Trolling Flies, Spin Glow Rigs, Lure Building, Etc.

As you view our site and read the Fishing Tips and Testimonials you'll learn that matching trout beads, egg beads, fishing beads, mottled beads, strike beads, and glow beads to eggs drifting in your local waters is the most effective spawn replicating fishing technique ever developed. This secretive technique has been guarded for many years, in many areas, but now is revealed.

Fishing is a process of outwitting your prey with creations that most imitate what fish feed on through out the year. Matching exactly what fish are looking for will increase your fishing success rate. During the spawn when fish are seeking eggs, they see single fish eggs drifting along the bottom of rivers or streams, not egg clusters. Salmon, Trout and Steelhead do not spawn in clusters. You will occasionally see a group of eggs sticking together but the mass majority are singles eggs.

Steely Ron’s Fishing Beads match the buoyancy of fish eggs, which is another reason ( beside obvious size and color ) that allows our fishing beads and technique to be so effective. From East to West coast... Salmon, Trout and Steelhead Bead Fisherman have counted on Steely Ron’s fishing beads to replicate multiple fish eggs in size and color maximizing catch rates while fishing with beads for during the spawn. 

The Steelhead Special has been field tested and proven by Bead Fishermen to catch Trout, Steelhead, and Salmon all over North America. If new to Bead Fishing and aren't sure what Salmon, Steelhead or Trout Beads to purchase, than this is the selection for you. This Steelhead Bead Selection has proven to slay Steelhead and Trout. This Fishing Bead selection includes 6 different Salmon, Steelhead & Trout Beads designed to match fish eggs and there many stages of incubation. This selection also includes Hybrid Glow Beads which fish great day or night! With the Steelhead Special Fishing Bead Selection you'll find the correct bead to match the condition you are fishing. This selection includes 6 different Salmon, Trout, and Steelhead Beads proven to give the natural appearance of eggs spawned by trout, steelhead, salmon, whitefish and various other species native to there habitat. These fishing beads were created to be used when fly fishing, bouncing bottom, or fishing under a bobber for trout, steelhead or salmon.
Fresh Steely Eggs is a Trout Bead that belongs in every steelheader's tackle / bead box. This "eye-popping" fishing bead replicates fresh spawned trout or steelhead eggs. A great Steelhead Bead to fish on high visible clear days during any stage of the spawn.
 Check back often, as we are continually testing, adding, and developing new products.
Click image to enlarge and receive the product name, number, and description
Steely Ron's Center Pins are treated picks designed to protect your leader and pin your bead when center pin fishing for Trout, Steelhead and Salmon. The treated pliable non abrasive pick will not damage your leader like a conventional pick. These center pins are scented with Anise or Shrimp Oil. 
These indicators are designed to match the dynamics of conventional fly indicator but specifically designed to be used when fishing with a spinning or conventional Steelhead Rod. You will be able to fish like a conventional fly fisherman but cover 10 times the amount of water.
Here at SteelyRonssteelheadbeads.com we offer multiple fishing products and services. On our Products page you'll find our entire selection of Salmon, Steelhead & Trout Beads, multiple fishing bead selections consisting of Trout Beads, Steelhead Beads, Salmon Beads, Egg Beads, Mottled Beads, Glow Beads, and Strike Beads that have proven to catch fish through out all of North America. In the main Menu above or below you will see other services we provide ( Stream Flows for all North America, Fish Reports, Weather, and Fishing Tips. These pages have been added to the site to educate and assist fishermen in assessing how, when, and where to Bead Fish for Trout, Steelhead & Salmon. Here at steelyronssteelheadbeads.com we are committed to the advancement of the world of bead fishing and your success there in.
On our Products Page in the Main Menu above or below you'll find:

•Salmon, Steelhead & Trout Beads
•Salmon, Steelhead & Trout Bead Selections
•Pre tied Beaded Leaders
•Salmon, Steelhead & Trout Bobbers & Floats
•Bead Containers to store your Fishing Beads
•Yarn & Flash Containers
•Fishing Bead Accessories

Other Services we provide found in the Main Menu:

•Fishing Tips
•North American Stream Flows
•Fish Reports
•Weather

I've fished steelhead beads for years. I've tried other companies fishing beads in the past but have not nearly had the success I've had on Steely Ron's Steelhead beads. First time out with my 2 friends we hooked over 120 Steelhead on the S.F. Clearwater in 3 days. If that doesn't tell you how great this product is I don't know what will.

Thanks Steely Ron, I'll be back.

Jason



I went out with Captain Lance from Steelheadhuntergs.com Guide Service in Northern Michigan to catch Steelhead. We knocked em dead using Steely Ron's Steelhead Beads! In the past I've used Trout and Mad River Beads and did ok, but when I use Steely Ron's Steelhead beads it's like turning on a switch. I can't believe the difference in success I've had with Steely Ron's Steelhead Beads. There is no comparison between his beads and his competitors. Steely Ron's Steelhead Beads are the best beads on the market and water today!

See you on the water, 

Very Pleased Steelheader out of Michigan!!!


I've fished steelhead for years and have never done as well as I do on Steely Ron's Steelhead Beads. I used Steely Ron's Steelhead Beads this year and caught hundreds of Steelies. I also set a personal best landing 22 Steelhead on the S.F. of the Clearwater in Northern Idaho in one day. I can't wait to fish these beads again, and again!

Thanks Steely Ron,

Cy Hanson with greatnortherntaxidermy.com 


I've fished steelhead for 2 years and never hooked a fish. 1st time out with Steely Ron's Pre tied Beaded Leaders I landed 2 in 2 hours.

Thanks ,

Drew of Boise
I guide in Northern Michigan and heard about these great steelhead beads from other guides and had to try them. Sure enough I found out the first trip that Steely Ron's Steelhead Beads are a far superior beads to others I've fished! Fish after fish, we keep reeling them in! I caught this rare Brown Trout on Steely Ron's #01 - Fresh Eggs - Y. 

Thanks Steely Ron,

Captain Lance Keane with Steelheadhuntergs.com Guide Service
Cy Hanson and His lovely wife on the S.F. of the Clearwater in Northern Idaho. They had a great trip and once again Cy had multiple 15 fish days all on Steely Ron's Steelhead Beads. I look forward to seeing many more trip's from you two and hope to catch you on the water soon.

Your Friend,

Ron with SteelyronsSteelheadBeads.com
Joe from Washington putting it on the B-Run Steelhead in Northern Idaho. Joe's a real natural and a heck of a guy to fish with. All he wanted was some Steely Ron's Steelhead Beads and a point in the right direction, and the rest was history. I look forward to our next Trip.

Your Friend,

Ron With SteelyronsSteelheadbeads.com
Hello Fishermen, Prepare to go crazy! Once you start fishing for trout steelhead & salmon with beads you’ll be looking for fishing beads everywhere. You’ll go to Hobby, Craft, and Sporting Good stores asking what isle are the beads on. Well look no further you have found the home of the best salmon, steelhead, and trout beads on the market today, and will continue to be the best. We consistently develop and test new Salmon, Steelhead & Trout Beads within our organization as well as with affiliate Guide Services. Check back often as new fishing beads, products and videos are continually being added. Hope you’re on the water soon with a tight line and a full net, Steely Ron Bead Fishing for Trout Steelhead & Salmon Replicating fish egg’s by bead is truly the most effective way to catch these elusive fish, and the way it looks, it’s not going anywhere soon. Targeting rainbows, brownies, brookies, cutthroat, dollies, char, steelhead, red’s, humpy’s, silvers, dogs, and king’s during the height of the spawn with Steely Ron’s Fishing Beads will make a believer out of anyone. It’s like matching the hatch of mayflies, caddis, or stoneflies on any trout or steelhead river. The right bead drifting down river looks so much like a real fish egg that trout & steelhead often can't tell the difference. Most likely, underwater, you couldn't either. What Bead do I Use? Research is key! It’s the difference between a normal and an epic trip. Knowing the species in spawn is essential when matching eggs to beads. Not all species of salmon have the same size eggs / roe. For instance, Sockeye Salmon / Reds produce the smallest eggs. Commonly 6mm beads replicate sockeye eggs. Pinks ( Humpies ) and Coho’s ( Silver’s ) have a med size egg. During their spawn 8mm’s are a great size to start with. The largest salmon eggs produced are by the Chums (Dogs) and Kings (Chinook) Salmon. When fishing for these elusive big fish normally size does matter. Start with 8 & 10mm salmon beads to produce results. At Steely Ron’s there is a fishing bead and size for every situation 6mm, 8mm, 10mm and 12mm. Fish smaller beads in slower water where fish have time to inspect the bead, and fish larger beads in faster water where the beads drift by the fish at a much faster rate. A larger target in turbulent water allows the fish time to target in. Determine the run time of the spawn; run times can differ year to year depending on Mother Nature. Check fishing reports, stream flows, and dam counts for the area you plan to fish. Knowledge of these key factors will assist you in fishing successfully. Choice of Bead for the Big Trout or Steelhead? Understanding that fish eggs change appearance once laid is key. Fish eggs just birthed are called “fresh” or “live” eggs. It will often be orange, pink, red, apricot, or yellow and appear to have an oily sheen. After the egg has been in the water for some time and is free floating it will appear as a mottled light pink, orange, yellow or peach. Finally, at the end of it’s cycle the salmon egg becomes a “dead egg” with more solid, dull appearance. Look around the river and pools. If you see any fish eggs match the size and color. If you still don’t know which eggs the trout are feeding on, a good rule of thumb is to start with one of Steely Ron’s freshly spawned egg ( Live Egg ) replicating trout beads. If a live egg bead doesn’t result in a strike try replicating an older egg / A more aged looking Steelhead Bead. Many of our mottled beads represent the look of aged eggs lifted from their spawning bed free floating in the current. These beads are a major target for trout. It is very important to carry a good selection of aged egg steelhead beads / dead egg beads. These beads for steelhead and trout can be deadly, especially late in the spawn. SteelyronsSteelheadbeads.com offers pre-packed bead selections like the Guides Series and The Ultra 20 each having a variety of dead and live egg beads to choose from. Both having great fishing beads for trout, steelhead & salmon. How to Rig Fishing Beads on the Fly There are several ways to rig trout, steelhead & salmon beads with many styles of leaders. Most anglers use a strike indicator but it isn't mandatory. How you choose to fish is up to you. Typical leaders range from is 4-7 ft of straight 8, 10, or 12 lb. monofilament with about 2 - 3 feet of 8 - 10 lb. fluorocarbon tippet. The idea behind this is to get a vertical hang in the water column while reducing drag on the leader maintaining a drag-free drift. Standard 7 ½ - 9 ft tapered leaders can also be used. Tie on an easily adjustable indicator so that you can change depths quickly. If split shot is needed attach it to the leader at the tippet connection. Hooks should be very sharp with short shanks in size 4, 6, or 8 to match bead size and fish size. Pinning the Bead There are many ways to pin a bead. The first requiring a Steely Ron’s Scented Softened Pick. Slide the bead onto the leader 2 inches above the hook. Slide a the pick into the bead with a twisting motion pinning it in place. Carefully snip the toothpick away from the bead and leader with nail clippers. Be careful not to snip the leader. Another way requires the King Pin. The King Pin flosses soft pliable material through the bead like banding, maribu, yarn, flashing, etc…The softer pliable material won’t damage the leader and it is easier to cut away from the bead than a pick. Just slide King Pin through the bead, slide banding through King Pin, and pull banding through bead. Bead is safely pinned. Now cut excess banding with clippers being careful not to cut the leader, done. The second method uses the bead knot. The bead knot is fast and easy because it doesn’t require pegging the bead. The down-side is that the leader weakens more quickly. First slide the bead through the leader like you would if you were to peg it. Now run the leader through the bead the same way a second time so that the bead is attached to the leader via a loop. Now slide the bead up the leader so that you can attach the hook. Once the hook is attached, slide the bead back down the leader towards the hook. Once you have the bead in place, open the loop up by pushing the leader through the bead towards the hook. Once the loop opens on the outer side of the bead, take the hook and wrap it through the loop 8-10 times like you would a clinch knot. Now pull tight. If done correctly the knot will snug up into the bead with none of it exposed. How to Fish a Bead bead fishing techniques are very similar to nymphing techniques. In the most common scenario you cast 45 degrees upstream from the fish that you are targeting, get a good up stream mend and dead drift the bead. Trout key in on eggs that are dislodged from spawning beds and are drifting down the river. Often there is a lot of food in the river during the salmon spawn, so trout can be picky about the presentation and selection of beads. At the same time, don’t be surprised if a trout charges 5 feet or more to grab a bead. If you’re sight fishing to a particular fish and it doesn’t eat the first bead you throw at it, take your time and try a different bead color or a different size. Maybe try changing your approach. Chances are you will be able to get that fish to bite. Good luck and have fun! **Please note that in the State of alaska beads are considered attractors, not flies. When fishing beads in Alaska’s fresh waters, a bead that is fixed or “pegged” so that it cannot freely slide on the leader, cannot be fixed more than 2 inches from the hook. ***Also note that because beads are not considered flies, you cannot fish them in fly-fishing only waters with a bare hook. In fly-fishing only waters a fly tied of traditional means (with thread) must be used with beads. A thread wrapped hook with a pegged bead will suffice in fly-fishing only waters under state regulations. Please check with the Alaska Department of Fish and Game for further information. During October, as the coho run starts to wane, many anglers hang up their gear for the year or book expensive trips to exotic resorts to cast at fish with unpronounceable names. Many folks clean out their fly boxes and reminisce about the fun-filled fishing of summer, wondering when the first thaw of spring will allow them back on their rivers in pursuit of their piscine quarries once more. Other anglers begin to get a little twitchy around these fall days, and some even mumble epithets at the cohos, wishing them gone or at least diminished so they can begin their fishing season. Who are these folks, these die-hard fishers that angle well into November and some cases even into December, you ask? They are the fall steelhead addicts. They venture forth in the fall, clad head to toe in Gore-Tex and insulating layers, to chase the very highest star in the Alaska fly angling constellation. Content with counting a single hookup a day as a success, accepting of the fact that the hours of light are rapidly decreasing as the season goes on, able and willing to deal with iced-up guides, frozen digits and stiff fly lines, these folks are a breed apart, as are the fish they so avidly pursue. MEET THE FISH Alaska's steelhead populations fall into two discrete categories, Fall run and Spring run. Both spawn in the spring then return to saltwater, with the fall fish overwintering in their natal streams. In some systems, the fall run begins as early as August, but the bulk of the return statewide occurs from late September to mid-November. In most of Alaska's two-run steelhead streams the fall run is the smaller of the two - lesser known, fewer fish, less fishing pressure. In some locations, however, the fall run is the dominant run and sometimes the only run of steelhead the stream receives. Fall steelhead occur in many regions of the state, most notably on Kodiak Island and the Alaska Peninsula, with some streams on the Kenai Peninsula and Southeast Alaska also hosting runs. Some of these streams are well-known or easily discovered, but many streams in these areas have small fall runs known only to a few select anglers. For many, this is the real joy of angling: the process of discovery and the finding of new water when everyone else is at home. Unlike salmon, which die after spawning, most steelhead survive to return to the ocean after the spawn. One of the consequences of this trait is that they maintain a high level of wariness in freshwater, unlike the "spawn zombies" that most salmon species morph into. This wariness needs to be taken into account when angling for steelhead, as they can be extremely skittish and easily spooked. Take care not to wade too deep, try to blend into your background, and avoid excessive motion when casting to sighted fish and you will have a greater chance of success with these "fish of 10,000 casts". TECHNIQUES For the purposes of brevity, all steelhead presentation methods can be broken down into two types: Swinging and Dead-Drifting. Within each of these two presentation philosophies there are a multitude of disciplines, and many different ways of going about each, but in the end, you are either swinging your offering through the holding water of choice or presenting it "dead" at the natural current speed. swinging flies for anadromous fish is a classic technique, and as the name implies, it involves "swinging" a fly through a section of holding water using sink-tip or full sinking lines to present the offering either above or in front of fish. The archetypal swing presentation starts at the head or top of a portion of holding water with the angler positioned about knee-deep in the current. The fly is cast across the pool and at a 30-50° angle downstream from the angler and allowed to swing through the water. The presentation is finished when the fly is directly downstream of the angler; upon reaching this point, line is retrieved, the angler takes a step downstream, and the process is repeated. Sounds simple, doesn't it? As simple as it sounds, it can be a complex, nuanced dance with the changing currents and depths of the pool. In the ideal swinging situation, the current is slower to the inside or angler's side of the pool, and the pool is uniform in its depth gradient from midcurrent to shoreline. However, "ideal pools" are few and far between in Alaska, and to swing a fly in a less-than-ideal situation an angler needs to have a basic command of mending and line control to present the fly properly. For neophytes, the most common trap in the swinging technique is rushing the presentation. When done patiently, an angler can "cut" the holding water with their fly into step-sized arcs, effectively covering the entire pool from top to bottom. Moving too far or too fast between casts can leave gaps in this coverage, leading to missed opportunities as the fly is presented too far ahead of or behind the fish. Another symptom of rushing the swing is picking up the fly before it completes its arc, coming to rest directly below the angler. Often, interested fish will follow the swinging fly all the way to the end of its arc before striking, and occasionally will hit after almost a minute of "hang-down" time. Let the fly fish all the way to the end of the swing, then pause for awhile before beginning the cycle over again - the results may surprise you. Dead-drifting, also referred to as nymphing, is another popular technique for presenting a fly to holding fish. In this technique, the fly is cast straight across or slightly upstream of the angler and allowed to drift "dead" with the current, usually near the river bottom. Dead-drifting is usually performed with a floating line and a weighted fly meant to imitate either local insect nymph stages (hence, "Nymphing") or various other forms of organic matter found in riparian environments, such as salmon eggs or flesh. The ideal dead-drift keeps the fly on a parallel path in the current to maintain a life-like presentation of the offering, One of the most common pitfalls of the dead-drifting technique is excessive movement of the fly. In some situations this cannot be helped, but in most fishing scenarios the "life-like" illusion can be destroyed by too much line drag, causing your offering to go zipping around all willy-nilly. As a general rule, salmon eggs and tiny insects don't swim fast or at all in the natural environment, and these motions might set up red flags for wary fish eyeing a potential meal. To combat line drag, mend upstream immediately after the cast, and then as needed to keep your offering moving at the same speed as the current. Dead-drifting can be accomplished with or without the use of a strike indicator, a small float placed on the leader and intended to aid in the detection of subtle takes. Recently, the trend has been to abandon all pretense of "indicator" and treat the device as a bobber to maintain presentation depth. To achieve a dead-drift with this type of setup, the angler need only to mend line to the indicator to prevent it from dragging in the current. Useful in many situations, the "bobber-cator" can also be a hindrance, occasionally spooking skittish fish in shallow, clear water. EQUIPMENT: RODS, REELS, LINES, FLIES Selecting a rod for steelhead can be a confusing process, so let's cut to the chase and come out with the bad news - there isn't "just one rod" that is capable of handling all of the different fishing situations one may encounter in Alaska. Having said that, let's break down rods into 3 basic categories and examine them a little closer. Single-hand rods for steelhead are typically 9 to 10 feet long, for 7 or 8 weight line, and are designed to be overhead cast with one hand. These rods are ideal for dead-drift presentations and indicator fishing, and are easily toted along the brushy stream banks of Alaska. Swinging can also be accomplished on small streams with a single hander, but space is needed for back casts. As the water gets bigger, the casting distance also grows, and the single-hander is limited in its ability to get large flies long distances in any fishing situations encountered. Spey rods, also called two-handed or two-handers, are designed to be cast with...wait for it...two hands. Typically 12 to 15 feet in length, these rods have a grain-weight rating system to match the line to the rod. Two-handed casting is accomplished by loading the rod with the line on the water, resulting in a more compact cast window and the need for less space behind the caster. Spey rods are the prototypical swinging rods, and their ability to cast long distances with a single motion lends itself well to the art of the swung fly. Their length makes them a poor choice for some of the smaller flows in Alaska, and it would be a chore to get a 15 foot rod through the stream side brush, but they come into their own on the larger rivers of the Alaska Peninsula and Kodiak Island. Switch rods are a relatively new innovation, and they are designed to be cast in either single-hand overhead, two-hand overhead, or two-hand Spey styles. Typically 10 1/2 to 11 1/2 feet long for 7 or 8 weight line, the switch rod is the closest thing to an all-around steelhead rod that the Alaskan angler can get. Dead-drifters get enhanced control at distance with a longer rod, swingers get the ability to deliver large flies with Spey-style casts, they are fairly easy to tote through the brushy stream corridors of Southeast Alaska, and they handle large water fairly well. On the down side, they are slightly harder to single-hand overhead cast than a true single-hand rod, and they won't cast as far as a true Spey rod. switch rods are fast becoming the tool of choice for steelhead anglers in the know, so check one out soon. The ideal Reel for steelhead angling should be able to hold a full line and at least 150 yards of 30 lb. backing. The spool should be of the large arbor type to give the angler the ability to pick up large amounts of line in a hurry, as steelhead are capable of blistering runs both to and away from an angler. A good sealed drag system is a must, and an exposed spool rim is a plus when the need arises to apply extra pressure to big fish . One of the most common misconceptions about drag systems is the notion that the drag on a steelhead reel needs to be able to stop a truck. The best drags ( in our humble opinion) should be measured both by low start-up inertia, or the amount of force required to initiate movement, as well as smoothness of operation. Some drag systems with high start-up inertia tend to surge, leading to lost fish, and herky-jerky motions imparted by rough drags can also result in heartbreak. There are Lines for all types of specialized applications in steehead fishing, but luckily there are some all-around lines as well. For dead-drifting, a full-floating line is the best choice as it gives the angler the most direct line control. For swinging applications a full-sinking line is occasionally used, but in more common usage are interchangeable sink-tips of various lengths and densities. Multi-tip line systems are rapidly gaining favor among steelheaders for their all-in-one versatility. With these systems, the angler gets a running line integrated to a weight-forward floating section that ends in a loop, as well as up to 5 looped tips in various densities from full-float to full-fast sink. Two-handed rods have their own line classes, with lines being selected by grain weight and rod length. Many of these lines are also multi-tip systems, and with new sinking line products on the market an angler can make their own sink-tips to match up to any fishing situation. There are as many different types of steelhead Flies as there are anglers that fish for them. Over the years steelhead have been caught on a wide range and variety of patterns, from the simple yarn glo-bug to the astoundingly complex Jock Scott, originally designed for Atlantic salmon. The moral of this story is...have a wide selection. A few things to consider when selecting flies for steelheading in Alaska: -When in doubt, throw pink. Probably responsible for more steelhead hookups than any other single color. -Have a wide range of profiles handy, from the long skinny look of the moal leech down to the compact roundness of the glo-bug. -As with profiles, have a range of sizes as well. Overcast or high water conditions dictate the use of larger flies, and low clear water means the use of the smallest stuff in the box. -Don't be afraid of the dark colors. Black and purple are responsible for many steelhead hookups as well. It might be cruddy weather, the sun might not shine quite as much as it did in May, and there might be slightly fewer fish...but they are steelhead. Fall steelhead, the silver bullets that round out the sport fishing year in Alaska. Fresh from the ocean, still willing to take a properly presented fly, they represent both the beginning and the end - The end of the angling year, the last of the wonderful opportunities that Alaska has to offer as well as the beginnings of an angling obsession, the quest to bring one of these rare and exquisite game fish to hand. STUFF WE LIKE Rods- Sage Z-Axis 6126 6wt 12'6" Two-hander Sage Z-Axis 7110 7wt 11' switch rod Sage Z-Axis 8110 8wt 11' switch rod Sage VT2 890-4 8wt 9' single hander Winston BII-x 8100-4 8wt 10' single hander Winston BII-MX 790-4 7wt 9' single hander Reels- abel super 7 Nautilus CCF No.8 ross cla 5 galvan torque T-8 Lines- Rio Grand full-floating line for single handers Scientific Anglers Steelhead full-floating line for single handers Sage Indicator Taper full-floating line for switch rods Rio "Dredger Versi-Tip" multi-tip line system for single handers Rio "Skagit" multi-tip line system for two handers Flies- Pick Yer Pocket - Orange #2 guide intruder - Pink #1/0 situk steelhead 36 Fly Selection Thunder moal - Purple/Pink #4 Steelhead glo bug - Steelhead/Burnt Orange #2 Willie Nelson #2 10mm troutbeads in Clear Orange , Dark Roe , and Orange Pearl Swinging for kings isn’t some dance from the 1930’s, nor is it some hush-hush party for adults. Swinging for kings is one of the most exciting and rewarding ways to fly fish for king salmon. King Salmon are the largest of the Pacific salmon, averaging 20-35 pounds, with the world record coming in at an astounding 97.4 pounds. To take one of these beasts on the fly is a challenge, to take one on the swing is king. Shear brute strength and mind blowing runs make kings one of the hardest fish to land on the fly. There are several fly fishing techniques that are effective for kings. Three of the most popular are stripping streamers, nymphing and swinging. Stripping streamers is a good technique for fish that are milling around in slack water and back eddies. Nymphing works well on holding fish, especially in smaller systems, when a king might not be as likely to move for a fly. One of the most exciting ways to fish kings is on the swing. With swinging it is all about the “tug.” The “tug” can happen from the moment you mend the line to the end of the swing. It can be subtle or a full on “jerk the rod out your arms” take. The anticipation of the tug is what swinging is all about. One moment you are in La-La Land, the next moment things are happening so fast that if you blink, the fight is over. How To Swing Swinging isn’t hard to do. Set yourself up at the top of a run. Once you are in place and ready to fish, cast your line quartering down stream at a 45 degree angle across the river. Make a large upriver mend to hold the fly and allow it to drop in the water column. Once the line tightens up, drop the rod tip to the water and follow the line with the rod tip through the swing. Be patient and finish out the swing. Fish may follow the fly through the swing and hit it when the fly stops or on the first few strips when you are getting ready to cast again. When you start fishing, start close to you and slowly work out making a longer cast each time, adequately covering the water. Even though kings prefer to hold in deeper runs, they sometimes will be in shallow. Don’t blow your chance at an easy fish by skipping over shallow water. After covering the water from your starting position, take two to three steps down and start again. If after fishing through the run you feel like there are fish holding there, change flies and start at the top again. Try a different color or different size fly. Where To Find Kings Most major rivers throughout Alaska have king runs. Some of the more popular rivers are the Alagnak, Naknek, Karluk, and Kanektok. Two of the most prodigious rivers are the Kenai and Nushagak. Some of these rivers, like the Kanektok, are very swing friendly while others, like the Kenai, due to it heavy fishing pressure, fast current and milky water, make taking a king on the fly more challenging. Then there is the Nushagak, a giant river with the largest run of kings in the world. Large, long runs with slow to medium flow coupled with huge numbers of salmon make the Nushagak an awesome river for swinging flies. Where To Swing Flies Good swinging water can be found through out most rivers, from the upper reaches all the way down to tidewater. To target kings as they move in from tidewater, try focusing on runs 4-8 feet in depth that lie between shallow flats and deep pools. This is where the kings will start to hold. Just before, during and after the high tide is the time to look for fish moving out of tidewater. This is a great time to catch “chromers.” To target holding fish, look for runs that gradually transitions from shallow to deep with moderate current so that you can get the fly down into the zone. A lot of fish will sit at the top and bottom of these runs and pools. Shallow fast runs that drop into deep pools can be hard to swing because of theirweird current seams, up wells and eddies. Choosing A Rod There are three choices of rods when it comes to fishing for kings and all of them can be used for swinging flies. They are the standard single handed rod, Spey rod and the new switch rods. Each rod has its advantages and disadvantages and choosing one will depend on personal choice, water types and strategy. Single-handed rods in 9 foot 9-12 weights are most commonly used. Advantages: •They are very versatile and will work well on most king waters. •They are easy to use out of a boat. •9 foot 4 pc. rod breaks down to 30”making it easy to travel with. •Their relatively short length makes them easier to use on small streams and rivers. Disadvantages: •More false casting is needed to get the line out. •More effort is needed to cast long distances. •More space is needed for back casting. •They are harder to mend large amounts of line with. Spey rods (a.k.a. double-handed or two-handers) are popular in 13-15 foot 9-10 weights. Advantages: •Much less effort is needed to make long cast. •Larger mends are easier to make. •It is easier to throw big flies and heavy sinking lines. Disadvantages: •’They are difficult to fish on small water. •Two handed rods are challenging to fish from a boat. •Limitations of fishing techniques. Because of their length, swinging is the most common technique used with spey rods. switch rods are fairly new to the scene. Switch rods are short two-handed rods that average 10 ½ to 11 feet in length. Switch rods can be fished either with over hand casting or spey casting and switching between the two styles of casting is easy. Advantages: •Versatility. Both over head and spey casting can be done. •They are easy to fish from a boat. •They work will on both small and large rivers. Disadvantages: •Not as easy to fish in all techniques as a single hander. •Do not cast as far as spey rods. Switch rods are quickly becoming popular in Alaska for salmon and steelhead. Check them out! Choosing A Line Kings generally hold near the bottom of the river and prefer deeper runs and pools. In many rivers, especially larger systems, this makes choosing the correct line crucial. Luckily there are more great lines for king fishing than ever before. On some rivers, like the Karluk River on Kodiak Island, fishing a floating line or a light sink tip with a heavy fly will put you in the zone. While other rivers, like the Nushagak or Kenai, may require heavier tips to get your fly down. Multi-tip fly lines are a great way to cover all the bases. Rio’s Dredger line comes with 24 foot heads that are great for large rivers where kings are holding in deep water. Rio’s Versi-tip is a great line with 15’ tips in floating, clear intermediate, and type 3, 6 and 8 sink rates. It fishes well on both small and large rivers. As far as switch and spey rods are concerned Rio has a great selection of multi-tip lines like their Skagit series and Wind-Cutter series lines. If you need a sink tip that drops faster than the manufactured tips that come with the multi-tip lines, Rio makes a build-your-own tip line called T-14. T-14 drops like a rock and is a good choice for those kings sitting in deep, tight pools. If the kings are holding in runs that are on the far reaches of your normal casting range, you may want to look into Rio’s Outbound Integrated Shooting Taper. A great line for long distance casts that fishes incredible well. Reels A good reel with a smooth drag is must for kings. There is nothing worse than losing a big king to a reel seizing up or watching your fly line swim away. The reel should be able to hold a few hundred yards of 30lb. backing. Galvan’s Torque series are a nice reel that is light in weight. Ross’ CLA and Momentum series are both top quality reels, along with Nautilus’ CCF and Abel’s Super Series. A good reel can make the difference between beaching a king or falling to pieces and becoming “the grown man that cried.” Choosing the Best Flies There are a lot of flies to choose from when targeting kings on the swing. Here are some helpful insights when choosing flies. Early Season: •The big and bright rule. Try pink and fuchsia flies on bright days and chartreuse on dark days. •Strung out patterns tied with stinger hooks are great. Dolly Llamas, Intruders, Jumbo Critters and Super Prawns are a few of the best. •Big leeches like Hareballs are very good, too. Late Season: • Think dark. Purple, Black/Red, Black/Orange and Black/Blue flies are deadly. •Jumbo Critters, Thundermoals, Signature Intruder and other “big uglies” can do the trick. •Fish smaller patterns when kings are sulking. egg sucking leeches and Hareball Leeches are a good choice. As the long glorious days of June and July come to Alaska it is time to roust your 10 weight from its winter hibernation. This time when you head out, think about swinging a fly. If you’re curious about Spey or switch fishing, now’s the time! More than likely there will be a river nearby where a swung fly will give you a good shot at hooking a mighty king. When that happens hold on and enjoy the ride.
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